Paris, Chinese New Year 2023

As I mentioned a while back, I’ve only recently gotten back to updating this site after all the COVID chaos really made me lose focus on it. I’ve finished with my most recent trip to Japan this past Easter so I may as well head into the archives a bit for some not yet seen images and stories. With that in mind, I present… Paris!

I took this trip shortly after things were starting to open up post-pandemic, at least as far as Hong Kong was concerned. Back in January 2023, during a very early Chinese New Year holiday, I decided to take advantage of the fact that Hong Kong had finally relented on quarantine periods for people entering, so I felt that a trip to escape was a good idea. Often, people will ask why I want to go to Europe when it’s cold. Honestly, I miss the cold. Not that Vancouver is emblematic of The Great White North but we do have four distinct seasons, unlike Hong Kong. I actually appreciate being able to get away and dress for the cold. Odd, I realize but hey, it typically means that tourist numbers are a lot lower as well.

When I travel I do a lot of walking. A Lot. I suppose to a certain extent there’s a bit of FOMO going on. I want to see what there is to see between the places I’m planning on going to see. If that makes sense. And in Europe, there’s generally a lot to see in their very walkable cities. “Why don’t you rent a bicycle?” Because then I need to worry about said bicycle and it’s a pain in the ass as a photographer to keep having to stop and/or worry about the bicycle. Long story short (I know, too late), over the nine days I had in Paris, I averaged 14.5 km/day. Averaged. At least according to the Apple app. I suppose that’s also one of the reasons I like to travel alone. I don’t know too many people that would be interested in logging those kinds of distances.

This time around, I stayed at the lovely boutique Hôtel Le Lapin Blanc in the Latin Quarter, right behind the Sorbonne. If you’re up on your Francais, that is the Hotel White Rabbit. If you’re further up on your literature, which story is famous for having a white rabbit? Yep, Alice in Wonderland. While the hotel isn’t awash in everything Alice, it does have the story as an overriding theme. The Latin Quarter is a brilliant area to make home base. It’s home to many bookshops, including the venerable Shakespeare and Co.. Luxembourg Gardens and Notre Dame cathedral are within walking distance. It hosts many fabulous wine bars, restaurants and coffee shops. I highly recommend a South American restaurant, Selva and a fun little breakfast/coffee shop, Jozi.

Naturally, one of the most amazing aspects of going to Paris is for the museums and galleries. There are a ridiculous number of world-class venues on offer. I made an effort to see as many venues as I could in the time I had available. I even did something a bit different and went to the Natural History Museum, and I’m so glad I did because dinosaurs! I spent several hours in there and it was fabulous. The Museum of Arts and Sciences is always a cool stop. They have THE Faucault’s Pendulum (in case there are any Umberto Eco fans out there). Unfortunately, like many major cities now, one can’t easily just wander in to some of the more popular places. Do yourself a favour and buy a Paris Museum Pass. It’s well worth the money and allows you to skip most ticket windows. Tickets for the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay in particular are now required ahead of time. In case you don’t know already, if you’re visiting the Louvre, enter via the entrance by the Jardin du Carrousel rather than the main entrance. The line will be considerably shorter. I knew the Louvre was going to be a bit of a gong show but, it’s the Louvre. The d’Orsay continues to be one of my favourite museums. Unfortunately both of these had reconstruction going on so it made poor situations that much worse, especially the Louvre which had the restoration process on the inside. The Centre Pompidou is a must if you’re into contemporary art, plus the view across Paris from the top level is worth seeing. The Musée Rodin is fabulous if you’re a fan of not only his work but his contemporaries as well. The circle of artists he associated with is pretty mind-boggling. As a photographer, I was excited to visit the new location of the Henri Cartier-Bresson museum. The current gallery is only a few years old as they relocated from Montparnasse to Le Marais district. It’s certainly much easier to get to and is within “museum mile” on the Right Bank. Unfortunately they had a couple of exhibitions that weren’t quite to my taste. Further stymieing my hunt for photo-related galleries, the Museum of European Photography was closed due to a changing of exhibitions.

I was not completely out of luck, however. As anyone who has been to Europe knows, there is plenty of art to be had in public spaces. One not need to pay to go into enclosed places. Le Marais is quite famous for its little DIY galleries that are plastered onto the walls of buildings, in addition to its graffiti. Some of the most fabulous and moving pieces of art are to be found in European cemeteries. Some people are uncomfortable in cemeteries but I find that these places are both a peaceful escape as well as lessons in art and history. Two of the most fabulous in Paris are Pére Lachaise and Montmartre. Many a luminary are buried within the walls of these two but often, they’re not necessarily the most amazing grave sites to behold. The Lizard King himself, Jim Morrison’s final resting spot would get passed by if not for the love and flowers he still manages to attract. Ettoire Bugatti of the eponymous supercar brand has a most simple granite marker. Then there are others that demand you to stop and admire, and of course, you do. This occurred to me in Montmartre cemetery, at the site of Gustave Guillaumet, a French painter famous for his paintings on north Africa and Knight of the Legion of Honour recipient, France’s highest honour. At the time, I had no idea who he was, it was the sculpture atop his grave that literally stopped me in my tracks: an absolutely stunning and poignant image of a girl. Upon researching, she is from the Algerian city of Bou Saâda where Guillaumet spent much time, forever dropping flower petals. According to what I could find, rather than based on a specific person, she’s merely an exemplar of an Algerian girl. Either way, she’s stunning. The sculpture was done by Louis-Ernest Barrias, another Parisian artist who was quite something in his own right and also a recipient of the Knight of the Legion of Honour.

Paris is a world-class city for good reason. Sure, people joke and complain about strike season in France. This one I suppose has merit as the French do seem to love a massive labour strike. In fact, had my flight out been a few days later, I would have been stuck due to a labour strike. However, I find the stereotype about the French being rude and dismissive to be completely unfounded. Every time I’ve been, I’ve never had much of an issue in dealing with the locals. I’ve met friendly, interesting people in my travels to the City of Light. My French is not fantastic but I make an effort, as I do whenever I travel to a non-English speaking country. Perhaps that’s the secret?


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